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On May 28, lawmakers in Nepal legally abolished the monarchy and declared the country a republic, ending 239 years of royal rule in the country. This is the most recent development in a process of transition in the Himalayan nation that started with a 2006 peace accord between the government and Maoist rebels. But despite these changes, life is a daily struggle for most people in Nepal, one of the world’s poorest countries. Read all of Peter’s posts from Nepal here.
As the sun slowly rises over the pine-covered peaks, we continue our journey deeper into the Himalayas. Many exhausting hours later we stop in a valley with emerald green wheat fields flanked by white mountains. In dozens of villages in the remote Mugu district, like here in the hamlet of Shreekot, the IRC is providing aid to the many thousands who have returned after years of displacement sparked by the conflict between Maoist guerillas and the Nepalese army.
We sit down with a group of villagers. One of the elders, Dhana Saran, complains that despite Shreekot’s wheat production, the village suffers from food shortages, especially during the harsh Himalayan winter.
Malnutrition is a major cause of death in Nepal and the mountain communities in the remote Karnali zone have a long history of chronic food shortages and periodic famines. Photo: Peter Biro/The IRC.
In this mountainous area, a very small portion of land is fertile enough to farm, my colleague Mohan Acharya, assistant protection manager, tells me. In other rural areas, medicinal plants and other cash crops can be grown to trade in the southern plains for money to buy food. But with the extremely poor transportation infrastructure in Mugu and the surrounding districts in the remote Karnali zone, this is not feasible.
According to the United Nations, malnutrition is a major cause of death in Nepal and the mountain communities have a long history of chronic food shortages and periodic famines. The soil here is poor, food production from farming barely lasts six months each year and the area is often hit by droughts. The government is airlifting subsidized food to some of these areas, Mohan says, but it rarely reaches the people most in need.
To help people grow their own nutritious food in sufficient amounts, the IRC has provided Shreekot and other villages in the district with agricultural training along with tools and special types of high-yielding seeds that can withstand excessive cold. The seeds can therefore be planted regardless of season. Crops include radishes, cauliflower, spinach and chili. In some villages, the IRC has helped start the production of apples and other fruit.
Village elder Dhana Saran says that Shreekot suffers from food shortages, especially during the harsh Himalayan winter. “We need all the help we can get,” he says. Photo: Peter Biro/The IRC.
“Clean water is also a problem in these communities,” Mohan adds. “To help prevent water-borne disease we installed a system for drinking water near the village clinic.”
Dhana Saran says almost everyone in Shreekot fled during the conflict. They are now returning to overgrown fields and broken houses. To help the village recover in the long term, the IRC recently organized a course where the villagers were taught to write proposals for funding that will be submitted to the local authorities and aid organizations.
“Our village economy is very bad and the illiteracy rate almost 90 percent”, Dhana Saran says as we prepare to leave. “We need all the help we can get.”
There is a serious shortage of health services, clean water and nutritious food in Nepal’s western mountain communities. The IRC has helped people here restart their lives by providing seeds, agricultural tools, livestock, essential household items and clothing. In the remote village of Ludku, villagers are now growing apples and other fruits. Photo: Peter Biro/The IRC.
Soon we are high above the village as we continue our walk to the neighbouring district of Jumla. The area is strikingly beautiful and still. After several hours I realize that I haven’t seen a living thing – not even a bird. The only thing I hear is a mild wind rustling through the trees and the crinkle of dry leaves beneath my feet. Each time we reach a peak, I find myself knee-deep in snow. The valleys far below us are springtime green.
Suddenly I spot an old man and a little boy, dressed in camouflage fatigues, coming toward us on the narrow trail. We take a break and strike up a conversation. Seven-year-old Janak Rokaya and his grandfather Dhanasingh are on their way to their village a day’s trek away. Dhanasingh tells us that Janak’s father served in the Maoist army and was killed in battle three years ago. Shortly thereafter, the boy’s mother left, leaving the old man to look after him.
On the four-day journey from Mugu to Jumla, Mohan Acharya (pictured) and I must cross several mountain passes, like this one at an altitude of 5,000 meters. The area is strikingly beautiful and still. Sometimes we walk for hours without a single sign of life. Photo: Peter Biro/The IRC.
“It is very hard for us to survive,” Dhanasingh explains as he takes out his son’s death certificate, issued by the party’s armed wing, from a worn nylon bag. “We have almost nothing and we have seen no compensation from the party.”
It’s hard to find anyone in the area who hasn’t been deeply affected by the decade-long conflict. Even though the peace has been holding since late 2006 and largely non-violent elections saw the Maoist win a landslide victory, life hasn’t really changed for people here. Poverty is endemic and politics still frightens people in the countryside. Stories of local Maoist commanders, army officers and police harassing villagers for money and support are common.
“We have trained people in human rights as part of our program here,” Mohan says as we sit outside a small mountain cabin where we are spending the night.
In front of us the setting sun is casting its red glow on the mountains, signaling the end of the day.
“Previously, people had no idea about the responsibilities of the army and the police. Now they know that the police need arrest warrants and that villagers can file complaints with the central authorities if they are abused. It is a start.”
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